Coleman stove parts
Use the removable tank plus generator tube, just as they are, from a Coleman two-
Detach both burners from their big box housing. Unscrew the secondary burner, by way of its tube, from the primary burner, and set aside. The main burner is what you’re after. Nothing destructive occurs, and you can easily revert back to your base-
So, you're now holding just the main burner assembly, the one you want to use. Flip it upside down, and notice a short port tube extending out. This port needs to be plugged.
On older stoves, such as my 425B from the early 1960s, this tube will have internal threads. If you can find a threaded metallic plug to fit, then great. Good luck: I wasn’t able to. Newer stoves, such as mine from the 1980s, have no such threads.
Regardless of stove model, I found that a ¾-
If the fit is too loose, as it was with my older stove, then use some aluminum foil cut in a long, thin strip to create a proper fit. Follow the instructions in the diagram above. Experiment a bit by winding different lengths of aluminum strip various numbers of times around the port tube: two, two-
The single main burner assembly, which you want to use, is now missing a support holding it the proper distance off the ground. The main burner, though, has an attachment hole at the rear. To this, attach a triangular support base. This support base will be an equilateral triangle 3¾ in. on each side, plus tabs extending from the two side members up to the attachment hole on the burner. A bolt goes through the tabs and hole. See photo at left. The support can be made from aluminum bracket material. I found my material lying around; I think it’s from a bulletin board frame.
Another part to be added, shown extending off to the right in the photo, is a connector rod, described next.
The connector rod keeps the tank and burner pulled toward each other. This rod is important for stability and for keeping fuel vapor from the tank flowing properly into the burner and not gushing randomly into the environment. Make this rod from 16-
Give the rod a slight upward bend in the middle so it clears the bottom of the burner on its way to the tank. On the free end of the rod, give the last ½ inch of rod a 100º bend downward. Measure for this carefully, with the tank’s generator tube firmly inserted into the burner. The bent tip on the free end of the rod should drop down securely through the hole in one of the two tabs (the nearby one) sticking out of the fuel tank (photo at right).
Older model stoves (such as mine) have this hole already drilled in this tab. Newer stoves, such as one of mine from the 1980s, will not. In this case, carefully drill your own hole in the tab.
Pot support (grill)
A pot support structure, a sort of grill, is made from steel rod material. I made mine from two lengths of 6-
Give each of the four rod ends a bend of 120º at appropriate distances from the cross point (measure carefully), and cut. The resulting structure should be about 4 in. across and stand about 1 in. tall above the burner. At the bottom of each of the struts, file a notch to engage the lip of the burner head.
Make a small, stiff box to (1) protect your other pack items from soot and snags from the pot support and (2) protect the pot support from bending at the hands of your other pack contents. You may, as I did, make such a cardboard box from a Kraft 6-
You might find yourself relegating the remainder of your original big-
The windscreen is made from thin sheet metal. A small hole for the generator tube and a slot cutout for one of the tank tabs to pass through steady the windscreen at its near end, next to the tank. A bolt protruding out the opposite (rear) end connects the windscreen, albeit loosely, to the burner support triangle. A hole drilled at an appropriate point on the burner support (see photo below) receives the bolt. Windscreen corners are rounded using tin snips. The windscreen, of course, helps the stove operate efficiently outdoors by saving large amounts of fuel and cooking time while also shielding the tank from excessive stove heat.
Two versions of windscreen are possible depending on your preferences regarding cost, labor, weight, durability, and portability.
Steel. One version may be made from a 5½-
Aluminum. Another version (bottom-
The aluminum windscreen version may be considered semidisposable. That doesn’t mean one should trash it in the wilderness, a huge no-
The results of your do-
Consider, however, these benefits of the DIY Coleman-
It can carry about 1.3 lbs. of fuel in its tank, which is enough for a party of five for 4 or 5 days.
Materials and mechanisms are extremely sturdy.
Wind protection is excellent, owing to the windscreen.
It blasts away as nothing you may have seen before. It boiled a liter of water for me in 3:20 (min:sec) under standardized conditions (Note a). Coleman rates their base-
Setup and startup are easy, comparable to that of other available stoves.
Flame control is precise: blast away or simmer or anything in between with a turn of the large control knob.
The cooking surface is a mere 4¼ in. up off the ground. Thus, this stove is low and stable.
If you have the parts and materials lying around, it’ll cost $0 or pennies out-
Operation cost is low, something like 12¢ to the dollar versus canister (butane, etc.) stoves.
Thus you have a high-
Execute this project and use any resulting product solely at your own risk.
This web page and the information therein have received no input, authorization, or endorsement from,
and the author has never had affiliation with, The Coleman Company Inc., or any other mentioned manufacturer.